Lunch Fri-Sun noon-3pm
Dinner Tue-Sun 5pm-9.30pm
Change is engulfing the former warehouse district of Rosebery. Design studios, furniture shops, bakeries, craft distilleries and real roast cafés now abound, along with new apartments by the hundred. Its new denizens like to dine, an appetite foreseen by pizza pioneer David Cowdrill. His chic, industrial-rustic trattoria has been dishing up exemplary wood-fired pies for several years now. It even carries a citation from the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana. Waiters with that winning Italo-bravado attend to the happy throngs - local traders, apartment salesmen and girl-time groups. Some opt for shared selections from the bianche or tomatoey rosse pizza list, others for the day's blackboard specials. Lightly battered fritto misto stars on Fridays, while cotoletta alla Milanese is featured on Saturdays. Italian vini, many by the glass, accompany the traditional fare. So simple, so civilised, and so much closer than Naples.
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