Dinner Wed-Thu 5pm-11pm
From the unpronounceable name to the conspicuous lack of signage, Dier Makr doesn't make it easy. Stopping by this venue run by young Melbourne treechangers means playing by their rules: namely, a dégustation-only menu backed by wines set firmly to the low-intervention end of the dial. Lucky, then, that chef Kobi Ruzicka and partner Sarah Fitzsimmons, running the floor with pet-nat verve, have talent to burn. The open kitchen - just a grill, really - is laughably small, but produces dishes of arresting originality. Just-seared mussels dabbed in chicken fat in a froth of mizuna-spiked golden ale with smoked almonds strike a note for innovation; slivers of wallaby double down on native ingredients with a local thyme-infused sauce and charred onions. Equally a place to hit for snacks and cocktails made with house-infused spirits, it's an original package in a world of encroaching sameness (and for the record, it's pronounced die-er make-er).