Lunch daily noon-3.30pm
Dinner daily 6pm-10.30pm
"Easy" might be the best way to describe Donovans. Staff greet you like old friends on arrival at their beach house. Wines are poured with care and conviviality and there's plenty to love by the glass. Go in the early evening. The curtains may be drawn - the reflection off the sand into the dining room is blinding - but you won't mind. You'll be occupied by a twist of smoked salmon with a buttery oversized blin, roe and pickled cucumber, perhaps, or by tuna tartare boosted with horseradish and anchovy. The garlicky pan juices are spooned over sizzling lamb shoulder at the table, but feeling this looked-after can come at a hefty price. There's magic here in spades, though: in a snappy buttermilk salad, the charming service, the sitting room with fireplace. Rollerbladers whiz past on the Esplanade as a chocolate-hazelnut bombe Alaska for two (ahem, four) hits the table. After a 20-plus year tenure by the sea, Donovans is still very easy to like.