Lunch Tue-Fri noon-2.30pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10pm
It may no longer set the pace for flash eating, but E'cco remains one of Brisbane's buzziest big-night-out restaurants. Staff are welcoming and know the food inside out. The presence of foams, powders, compressed melon and the like signal ambition in the kitchen, but this is still a bistro at heart, even if the main courses nudge the $40 mark. Rock oysters come present and correct, with bread from Danny's Bakery, French butter and a saline Sicilian white wine the ideal accompaniments. Quail wrapped in vine leaves with ricotta, black olive, chermoula and golden roasted cauliflower sounds busy, but there's harmony on the plate, while beef, seasoned with black cardamom and served in a thick, bloody chunk, finds an apt complement in braised lettuce and a purée of caramelised garlic. The twists don't stop at dessert: the olive-oil carrot cake is teamed with, of all things, an ice-cream made from rice custard. A stand-out stand-by.