Lunch daily noon-2.30pm
At the restaurant for Maxwell Wines, a new pass cut into the limestone dining room wall allows the buzz from the kitchen to filter into a previously austere dining space overlooking vineyards. Eager staff are enthusiastic about chef Fabian Lehmann's bold flavours, with good reason. He embraces the vitality of local produce - from robust chicken liver parfait on a chicken skin wafer through to rare kangaroo loin in a sauce finished with grated macadamia. Mushrooms grown in the winery's limestone cave - king trumpet, yellow oyster, shiitake and shimeji - are a star entrée, fried in brown butter and folded with soft-cooked egg. Little touches impress, such as contrasting twin buns (pumpkin and sunflower seed, fennel and saffron) and butter spiked with lemon and dill snow. A list comprising only Maxwell wines limits the matching options, especially with whites, but older vintages provide interesting counterpoints.
2 courses $59, 3 courses $70