Modern Australian
  • Level 1, Establishment,
    252 George St,
    Sydney, NSW
  • (02) 9240 3000,
  • Lunch Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm

    Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm


Hear that? No, you don't. Double-clothed tables, a capacious, sumptuously appointed room, discreetly eager staff in crisp uniforms: all of these things do their part to maintain a gentle atmosphere, but the ultimate sound dampener is money. A serious layer of it is required to dine at this most elegant of rooms, insulating Est from too much excitement. Still, the wine list is a stunner and there are things on the menu (other than prices) that quicken the pulse. Sticky lamb belly juxtaposed with confit squid and radishes on a smear of green sauce and anchovy jus is an ambitious take on surf and turf, while a side of wagyu-fat potatoes resembles nothing so much as deluxe hash browns. It's generally genteel, though; the Sichuan pepper spicing aged duck breast and salt-baked swede is a soft murmur rather than a rebel yell, the flavours of pineapple sorbet, mango, and kaffir lime melding with coconut at dessert into rice-pudding comfort.

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At a glance

  • Food:
  • Two Stars
  • Wine:
  • Three glasses
  • Price:
  • Lunch 2-4 courses $79-$120

    Dinner 2-4 courses $105-$160

    Dégustations $165-$195

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Wheelchair Access
    Private room
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Peter Doyle & Jacob Davey



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