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Finalists for Bar of the Year 2018
28.07.2017

Whether it's a late-night spot playing hip-hop at full volume, a throwback to the glamour of yesteryear or a bar-restaurant that slips the collar of definition, these three Bar of the Year finalists have all nailed one essential detail: good times.

Finalists for Regional Restaurant of the Year 2018
27.07.2017

These three restaurants - Fleet, Brae and Igni - might not be in capital cities, but the journey there is part of the unforgettable experience they offer.

Living off the land in winter
27.07.2017

The life of a farmer revolves around the seasons. Come winter, a certain thriftiness is needed in the kitchen to make the most of meagre produce, writes Paulette Whitney.

Why breakfast isn't the most important meal of the day in Italy
27.07.2017

Italy's claim to being the greatest of the world's cuisines has one key weakness: breakfast. But, argues John Irving, there's more to the story than first meets the eye.

Reasons to visit Los Angeles in 2017
27.07.2017

The hottest spots to eat, drink, play and stay on your next trip to LA, rounded up into one perfect day.

Reasons to visit Canberra in 2017
27.07.2017

Your guide to a perfect stay in Canberra, from where to sleep to the exhibitions you need to check out.

Restaurants with rooms
27.07.2017

Some of Australia's best dining destinations take the hassle out of a weekend stay by offering their own on-site digs where you can hit the hay in style after your meal.

Finalists for Maitre D' of the Year 2018
26.07.2017

The maitre d' is your first introduction to a restaurant - they do as much to create a sense of ambience as lighting, tableware and music. And these three professionals are top of the class.

26
Est
Modern Australian
  • Level 1, Establishment,
    252 George St,
    Sydney, NSW
  • (02) 9240 3000,
    merivale.com.au/
  • Lunch Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm

    Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm

Est
-33.864137,151.208061

The theatre starts with the room. Elegant banquettes, soaring columns, pressed-metal ceiling and glorious arched windows set the scene for formal dining that is becoming increasingly rare in Sydney. A Champagne trolley adds to the atmosphere and kicks off an experience where cloches are gracefully pulled from plates in tandem and sauces are poured from copper pans by smartly dressed waitstaff. The dishes, too, are all quality and tradition, and while there may be few surprises, the deft execution of one of Australia's most respected chefs, Peter Doyle, and his head chef, Jacob Davey, guarantees class and finesse. A beautiful Moreton Bay bug tail with yuzu curd, finger lime and kombu butter is a study in balance, the cocoa-crusted venison with cherries, beetroot and boudin noir rich and generous, and poached rhubarb with cheesecake ice-cream and strawberries is just as it sounds, a safe finale from a revered stalwart.


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At a glance

  • Food:
  • Two Stars
  • Wine:
  • Three glasses
  • Price:
  • Lunch 2-4 courses $69-$118;

    Dinner 2-4 courses $105-$155;

    Dégustation $180

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Bar
    Wheelchair Access
    Private room
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings essential
  • Chef:
  • Peter Doyle & Jacob Davey

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