Lunch Fri-Sat noon-3pm, Sun noon-4pm
Dinner Tue-Sun 6pm-10pm
What was going to become of Estelle when Scott Pickett opened his ambitious, dégustation-only restaurant ESP next door? It turns out that Estelle got the memo to relax. The clubby, dark-timbered space still offers the value of the five-course chef's menu, but diners can also grab a bar seat and work through the excellent snacks list, from fried salt-and-vinegar kale (a revelation) to a smoosh of spicy 'nduja and quail egg yolk on toast. Steak tartare gets playful with barbecue sauce and veal tendon crackers, and a rich squid-ink aïoli with cured salmon is scythed through by a citrusy salad. While ESP busts Pickett's more out-there moves, Estelle still offers his classic-with-a-twist signatures, such as a wickedly caramelised pineapple tarte Tatin with the warm hum of ginger. Add a gang of waiters dedicated to the modern ideal of service, and a wine list set to thrill - Estelle might now be a "bistro" but it's certainly not B-list.
3 courses $60, 5 courses $90