Lunch Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm
Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10.30pm
Descending the stairs to Ezard feels as though you're travelling back in time. Not too far back, mind, just to the turn of the century, at the height of mod Oz, microsuede and expense accounts. Within this basement lair, polished waitstaff present a familiar line-up of Teage Ezard classics. While the mood is polite, there's nothing restrained about the cuisine. There's a tile of sticky pork belly with tart apple and the musty funk of black pudding purée, or the aromatic tom kha broth ladled over crab dumplings. Main courses skip from the relative simplicity of poached ocean trout with ginger, sesame and bacon dashi to the sweet-and-spicy kick of Sichuan duck. Desserts are more muted, with yuzu adding gentle pep to nougat parfait. Bypass the expensive by-the-glass offerings in favour of the expansive wine list, which brims with interesting imports. Ezard may play it safe, but who doesn't crave consistency every now and then?
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