Lunch Thu-Fri noon-3pm;
dinner Mon-Sat 5.30pm-10.30pm
Lennox Hastie moves between Firedoor's two wood-fired ovens and the central grills, splitting live marron in half and cutting 210-day dry-aged steaks straight off the bone. He reads the embers instinctively without breaking a sweat. In line with the sharp service, the dishes are bright and unobtrusive. Coals are tossed below plump pipis and blown on gently until the shells are just ready to pop. Marron turns a fiery hue before it's plated with grilled pomelo jewels and zesty coastal greens - just the kind of subtle cooking you'd expect from a former Etxebarri chef. While the price-point might beg for a longer sitting, the prospect of a glass of wine, meat and greens at the bar should not be ignored - especially if it's delicately grilled cos with translucent sheets of guanciale next to a big-hitting steak. A brilliant finale of sticky roasted peaches is sweetened all the more by Minnie Riperton riffing overhead. Quietly confident, beautifully executed.
6-course chef's menu $75, 8 courses $115