It's impossible not to feel looked after at Fleet, an 18-seater in Brunswick Heads that really keeps things local. Cooking only footsteps away from the communal table, Josh Lewis may hear your questions about rosella flowers and will bring one over to show you. Maître d' Astrid McCormack, meanwhile, gives the impression you're the only ones on her watch. Anything from the tight, mostly minimal-intervention wine list is available by the glass, while non-drinkers are treated to house sodas. And the food? It's thoughtful and highly original: sheep's milk yoghurt and grated macadamia play off an oyster's natural creaminess, while a bright oxheart tomato sauce balances out rich lamb neck that's been braised overnight then pressed. Finish with "cheese on toast", a savoury custard spread on kombu brioche and dotted with local cheddar, or go sweet with caramelised mozzarella whey dotted with cacao and raspberry.