Lunch Wed-Sun noon-2.30pm;
dinner daily 6pm-10pm
You can still order a schooner of Reschs with confidence, but The Four in Hand isn't what you'd call a classic Sydney bloodhouse − its plasmas screen the netball as well as the rugby, and the look for most of the punters speaks of healthily diversified investment portfolios. And while the bar menu offers steak sandwiches and a schnitty, there's also a roasted snapper with salsa verde and radicchio. Over in the dining room, it's noisy, but the food doesn't have quite the same cut-through as it did under long-time chef Colin Fassnidge. Confit duck seems an odd thing to offer as an entrée, but it turns out it's served packed into a long cigar of brik pastry with an orange and turmeric sauce. Spanish mackerel, though, makes perfect sense steamed and served with a knockout anchovy butter and nubs of fried cauliflower. Details like bread from Iggy's are appealing, and the wine list remains a drawcard, as does pleasant, informed service.