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Four in Hand
Modern European
  • 105 Sutherland St,
    Sydney, NSW
  • (02) 9362 1999,
  • Lunch Tue-Sun noon-2.30pm

    Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10pm, Sun 6pm-8pm

Four in Hand

Keen-eyed diners will have noticed there's more to the Four than ever, the dining room expanded by a third. It's a sympathetic renovation, though, most noticeable to the ear, with noise levels midweek to rival what you used to cop only at weekends. It's suited-and-booted Paddington types, hooting over the punchy wine list and hollering for more beers from the main bar of the pub. Good thing, then, that Colin Fassnidge so consistently maximises every drop of flavour from the likes of barely poached red prawns, sitting pretty in a clean ham-hock broth with salty sea greens. Roast chicken reaches new heights paired with celeriac, prunes and the bread it was roasted on (juicy!), while crunchy battered bits of kale make the surprising garnish for veal precisely poached in milk with braised brisket. Desserts (liquorice-poached quince with parsnip, say) are a little kooky and a lot sweet. It's a rollicking good time; long may the Four roar.

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At a glance

  • Food:
  • Two Stars
  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • E $29

    M $42

    D $16

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Private room
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Diners Club
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Colin Fassnidge



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