REVIEW
You can still order a schooner of Reschs with confidence, but The Four in Hand isn’t what you’d call a classic Sydney bloodhouse − its plasmas screen the netball as well as the rugby, and the look for most of the punters speaks of healthily diversified investment portfolios. And while the bar menu offers steak sandwiches and a schnitty, there’s also a roasted snapper with salsa verde and radicchio. Over in the dining room, it’s noisy, but the food doesn’t have quite the same cut-through as it did under long-time chef Colin Fassnidge. Confit duck seems an odd thing to offer as an entrée, but it turns out it’s served packed into a long cigar of brik pastry with an orange and turmeric sauce. Spanish mackerel, though, makes perfect sense steamed and served with a knockout anchovy butter and nubs of fried cauliflower. Details like bread from Iggy’s are appealing, and the wine list remains a drawcard, as does pleasant, informed service.
Phone:
(02) 9362 1999
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Private room
Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
American Express
Diners Club
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Sam Kane
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
