A slab of blue-eye trevalla, a wedge of iceberg and some crunchy wakame. How those three basic ingredients could be prepared so perfectly that they replay in the mind for weeks afterwards is a secret known only to Franklin's chef David Moyle, though that wood-fired Scotch oven in the corner must tell some of the story. A very savoury fish congee studded with juicy generous mussels makes just as much of an impression, as do heirloom tomatoes tucked into a featherbed of cicely, buckwheat and goat's curd clouds - and the silky bay leaf and confit lemon ice-cream will permeate your dreams. The menu in this cleverly converted car showroom changes every day, the wine is mostly organic and entirely brilliant, the service is genial and the living is easy. And with pricing very squarely on the fair side you'd be mad not to eat here daily if proximity allowed. This is truly one of the more remarkable restaurants in the country right now.
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