Lunch Fri-Sun noon-3pm
Dinner Tue-Sun 5.30pm-11pm
Large restaurant groups like to sand back the edges, keeping things as generic and focus-group friendly as they can. Except when they open Fred's, which goes its own way, and yet has ended up the city's favourite crowd-pleaser nonetheless. If the rustic-luxe of the room seems like some designer dream of a farmhouse, the skills on show in the very open kitchen are as real as it gets. Danielle Alvarez's precision cooking and particular palate turn what is often essentially meat and three veg into deft showstoppers. Grilled radicchio, pumpkin purée and the tang of sherry vinegar, for example, flatter a grilled pork chop. Bookend that with brandade fritters, marinated artichokes and green-garlic aïoli that recall Alvarez's alma mater, Chez Panisse, and perhaps an apple and quince galette with honey crème fraîche, and all that remains is to let star sommelier Caitlyn Rees (who took out the award for Sommelier of the Year) pluck a gem from Fred's treasure-trove cellar.