Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10pm
David Coomer must have missed the memo about what constitutes a modern Asian restaurant. While his peers open high-fat and high-turnover frat-party eateries, the fine-dining veteran is sticking to his guns with Fuyu, an elegant bar and dining room offering some of Perth's most polished Asian cooking. Whether you order à la carte or leave the decisions to the kitchen, dinner is a study in provenance and technique. Wagin quail lacquered with Sichuan pepper and black vinegar exemplifies this winning East-meets-West approach. Duck egg, fish sauce and bright herbs steer beef tartare in a Vietnamese direction, while furikake, miso and puffed rice sparks deep-fried cauliflower to life. Although the menu is rooted in South East Asia, the drinks are almost all WA: enjoy a local ale or outré rosé while wolfing down golden Singaporean-style curry puffs and toast the return of one of Perth's favourite food sons. Smart service seals the deal.