Lunch Thu-Sat noon-2.30pm;
Dinner Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm
They're not afraid of smoke and mirrors at Gastro Park. The smoke may nearly be literal, too, in the case of the liquid-nitrogen fog streaming from a shell loaded with a bright scallop and pomegranate ceviche. The room is bistro-like, and the service low-key, but the food doesn't want for ambition. The restaurant is so named to flag a dedication to playing around with the boundaries of dining. Cynics may wonder if the liquid nitrogen, gels and "textures" boundaries of the molecular cuisine era were crossed years ago, but there's no denying that these guys know how to cook. Owner Grant King's years at Pier mean that fish is reliably dazzling: bass groper against a lush backdrop of shimeji, smoked radish and soy, say, or barramundi in duck broth scattered with its scales made crisp and delicious. Twists of caramelised apple skins over pain perdu and balsamic ice-cream are typical, too, of the showstopping calibre of the sweet finish.