This big, fat Greek party of a restaurant is George Calombaris's ode to top-notch taverna food, delivered to a heaving crowd that keeps the joint jumping from the minute it opens. You can go upmarket (wood-fire grilled yellowfin tuna with toasted walnut dressing and an aromatic $120 white from Santorini) or casual (paper-wrapped souvlaki and chips flavoured with oregano, feta and garlic). Gazi's puffy pita is some of the city's best, the nutty grain salad is deservedly a menu favourite, while chicken from the spit is charry yet tender, and baby heirloom carrots come with whipped feta and tomatoey vinaigrette. The office crowd laps up the raunchily named "bend over box" lunch special, and there's even takeaway. Tables and bar perches can get as noisy as a nightclub, so booths might be the quietest option for the beetroot Daiquiris and golden saganaki. Desserts such as the Valrhona-and-caramel take on the Magnum are more fun than fluffy dice.
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