Look past the red neon signage, designer interiors and booming rock music and you'll see that George Calombaris's rollickingly popular mid-range offering is really a boisterous Greek taverna at heart. Don't go expecting hushed intimacy (even when you think it'll be quiet, the place is still loud and full), but do expect zippy service and a fun time. Begin with next-level white tarama and fluffy pita or prawns swaddled in crunchy, buttery kataifi with spicy Aleppo mayo. A souva stuffed with chicken and chips is hard to resist, while traditional options like slow-roasted lamb shoulder (lifted with an aromatic confit garlic crust) will have you looking for ways to marry into a Greek family. Salads and sides blend old classics with modern ideas and should almost be compulsory, especially when they involve peas, mint and milky burrata, a perfect sidekick for that roast lamb. And desserts, like the dark chocolate mousse with raspberry sorbet, are far from an afterthought.