There's a view that Golden Century is all about chefs' late nights with pipis, XO sauce and pan-fried noodles. Even Momofuku's David Chang says this dish is perfection. But that diminishes the restaurant's other offerings, which range from prawn dumplings, silky bean curd with soy sauce and something delicious called "stir-fried mixed bits" to luxuries like snow crab or lobster sashimi, with crisp-skin chicken and roast duck somewhere in between. Plus there are the bonuses of a premium wine collection (BYO is also an option) and eating your meal surrounded by an uplifting buzz generated by waiters deftly serving and stacking, while negotiating their way around two floors of noisy tables of diners - almost all of whom are sharing more dishes than they need. It's not fine dining, the lighting and plasma screens are glaring, and it's hard to do the menu justice without at least six people, but for what it is, there is no peer in Sydney.