Lunch Mon-Sat noon-3pm
Dinner daily 6pm-10pm
Once part of a store for Sydney's dapper gentlemen, this dark room has a men's club feel, only with rather more buzz and relaxed but efficient service. The wine list is easy to navigate and offers a mix of local and international drops, with plenty of finds under $100 and lots to like by the glass (pouring those glasses tableside would be a welcome touch). The menu is rich in seafood, but also includes the wood-grilled likes of the "I only have minutes steak". This translates to tender rib-eye spiced with anchovy butter, and a salad of watercress and horseradish. The shoestring fries served with it are good, but a side of creamy macaroni and cheese is the star. Kimchi-spiked tuna tartare in lettuce cups and a crunchy salad of raw zucchini, fennel, squash and dill make refreshing entrées, while desserts range from comforting (profiteroles and beignets) to playful, with raspberry popping candy adding pizzazz to peach and rose sorbet.
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