Lunch Mon-Sat 11.30am-3pm
Dinner Mon-Sat 5.45pm-10pm
The recent renovation of Grossi Florentino's mid-tier offering has made the Robyn Boyd-designed room earthier and darker - inky timber panelling, timber tables sans linen, textured American oak floors - and sharpened its focus. A Josper oven and asado grill in the open kitchen put a slight whiff of smoke in the air and an emphasis on quality ingredients cooked with charcoal on the plate. Grill-striped veal chops are served with char-grilled witlof. Whipped ricotta teams well with smoky capsicum. Five meticulously sourced steaks arrive precisely cooked and unadorned, aside from a lemon garnish. Skull Island prawns get all the help they need from lemon juice, chilli and a little smoke. Pasta is a draw, especially pancake-like testaroli with basil, parmesan and oil, while desserts include a benchmark tiramisù. A well-priced wine list highlights Italian varieties without getting obsessive, and the service, led by Carlo Grossi, is perfectly pitched to the bustling bistro.