If you're not up for trawling the length and breadth of the Yarra Valley in search of its many vinous and culinary gems, Healesville's Edwardian-era hotel is a good Plan B. Built in 1910, this exceptionally hospitable pub has long paid homage to the valley's brilliant wine and produce in ways that are anything but old. Start with an Aussie take on steak tartare - done here with raw, house-smoked 'roo, pickled red grapes and toasted buckwheat. The wood-fired grill in the hotel's yard adds a comforting char to much of the menu, including the excellent grilled chicken. Ordered by the half or whole, the bird might come à la Grecque with a lively lemon, garlic and oregano baste along with blackened vegetables. Crunch and textural contrast are chef Chris Toogood's best trump cards and extend to an outstanding 12-hour roasted lamb shoulder which arrives topped with a hazelnut and fennel crumb. Staff are friendly, completing the warm country atmosphere.