Lunch Fri-Sun midday-4.30pm
Dinner daily 5.30pm-10pm
Now part of a small chain with outposts in Kew and Williamstown, the original Hellenic Republic sits comfortably in its East Brunswick surrounds, its exterior brightened with commissioned graffiti, the inside evoking the Mediterranean coastline. Start off with pita bread that's perfect with the sharply salty taramasalata or try the kounoupidi, a salad of cauliflower, heirloom radish, smoked almonds and sumac yoghurt that has an arsenal of burnt-butter fried caperberry flavour-bombs. Signature chicken from the spit might arrive a little dry, but slow-roasted lamb is a standout. The wine list is long but accessible, with practised staff at hand for guidance. A rosé from Agiorgitiko goes well on a hot day, but don't hold back on something fuller-bodied, like the xinomavro merlot. Salted caramel rizogalo, meanwhile, is a rice-pudding revelation and you won't regret asking for the Hellenic version of classic loukoumades.