In an old Art Deco cabaret hall on the Cottesloe seafront, Il Lido - part espresso bar, part restaurant - delivers a deeply likeable take on Australian-Italian dining. The whitewashed room is big, slightly boomy but ambient enough, with the ocean peeping in at the front window and one of WA's most extensive collections of Italian wines lining the back wall. Diners sit at wooden tables that stretch the length of the room, enjoying the kitchen's full-flavoured, uncomplicated cucina (mostly) povera. The pasta - mushroom ravioli with ricotta, pine nuts and crisp sage, perhaps - is mandatory ordering. Seafood is a strength and kept simple. Grilled cuttlefish is served as charred meaty chunks on a bed of olive flesh, while baby clams wallow in buttery juices. For dessert, a vividly green basil semifreddo is enlivened by the sweet tang of vincotto. Despite the laid-back beachiness of the place, sophisticated staff know their stuff.