Lunch Tue-Fri noon-2pm
Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm
Italian and Sons began building its fan base in 2009 and if you have been absent awhile, it's reassuring to return to the familiar long, narrow space, bar out the back, blackboard-menu walls, tightly packed tables, wood-fired oven working overtime, and well-versed staff with that slightly frazzled air. The compact wine list favours regional Italy, with plenty by the glass, and the menu delivers flavours that play well together. Hope that the zeppole - fried dough puffs freighting anchovies and bocconcini - are there when you are. For something more substantial, raggedy strips of pappardelle "alla carbonara" with smoked duck breast, duck egg yolk and pecorino hit the mark, and the tender salt-crusted beef tagliata with peppers and onions achieves a well-judged balance of contrasting flavours. Don't fight the standard choice of tiramisu for dessert. Why would you when it's as comforting as its surroundings?