Practice makes perfect, and this busy riverfront restaurant offers between eight and 14 species of fish daily, each annotated on the menu with a suggested cooking method and accompaniment. If you prefer freestyling, there are alternatives, and tutored staff can chime in. It's an attractive and tasty premise, particularly with a glass of zesty Sepp Moser grüner, or an Alsatian pinot blanc from a fish-simpático list. By the time you've chosen sides - broccoli, say, with a ginger and oyster sauce to team with seared kingfish and miso butter, or shoestring fries for tempura flathead fillets with a ginger vinaigrette - you'll be relieved you brought your gold card. The long, low dining space affords cool Story Bridge close-ups, and there's a terrace for diners who want to enjoy river breezes. Desserts lack the lustre of earlier dishes, so don't skimp on the entrées - betel leaves with ruby yellowfin tuna, nahm jim-spiked papaya and peanuts are perfectly sweet.
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