The name may sound a little pretentious, yet this buzzy venue is anything but. A merging of the Cavalier Supper Club and Justin Lane has created a rambling, eclectic space, which includes a hip rooftop bar offering ocean glimpses, savvy bartenders and mist sprays to keep things super-chilled in summer. It delivers on many fronts, and there's a corner to suit most - just choose wisely (the alfresco rooftop is counter service with restricted choice at times). A paper menu details deftly prepared Italian classics, pappardelle with wagyu Bolognese, say, or puffy, freckled sourdough pizze - a Margherita, perhaps, dotted with fior di latte, basil and tomato sugo - or chilli-lively squid-ink risotto with baby squid and blistered cherry tomatoes. Wine, served in tumblers, is well-priced and suitably Italian inflected. Bubbly service is also on the money. To finish, try tiramisù in a glass, or dig the cool fruits of a collaboration with Gelato Messina.
set menu $35