Brunch Sat-Sun 9am-3pm
Lunch Tue-Fri 11.30am-3pm
Dinner Tues-Sat 6pm-10.30pm
An apartment-block courtyard might not seem like the most soigné setting for a restaurant, but this complex is called the Casba, and you don't have to squint too hard before the palms and pond seem simpático with a menu rich in dates and cumin. Israel is the inspiration for Michael Rantissi's cooking both here and over the road at Kepos Street Kitchen, his much-loved café, but flavour is his guiding star, not orthodoxy. That brings the occasional gentle twist - burrata being the brilliant addition to a salad of roasted eggplant and almonds, potato crisps the vehicle for a fine, chermoula-tangy lamb tartare - without breaking with the airily Levantine feel of the space and the service. Elsewhere it's simply careful cooking and good taste that elevate dishes beyond the everyday: warm hummus mixed tableside, say, or beautifully fresh walnuts with snapper and tahini. Strong value, warm vibes, decent wine, great food: a big win.
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