REVIEW
Many talented young chefs have cooked at Knee Deep, but there’s something about Baxter Newstead that marks this cellar-door restaurant as one to (re)watch. A CV that includes Noma Australia and Vue de Monde sets expectations high, and the dishes make good on that promise. Australian ingredients star, from marron enriched with a lime-sharpened brown butter emulsion to pickled quandongs that freshen a meaty slice of oxheart tomato grilled over wood. This introspective attitude isn’t entirely solemn, however – lunch might include reimagined lamingtons and a dinky half-time orange jelly. Although the quality of the estate wines continues to rise, the offer of well-chosen imports poured by enthusiastic staff is a pleasing development. The Trust The Chef tasting menu remains the best way to experience Knee Deep, especially when a head-turning “rose” of white plum dusted with powdered rosella brings things to a close.
Phone:
(08) 9755 6776
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings essential
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Wheelchair Access
Accepted card types:
American Express
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Baxter Newstead
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
