Lunch Wed-Mon noon-3pm
Many talented young chefs have cooked at Knee Deep, but there's something about Baxter Newstead that marks this cellar-door restaurant as one to (re)watch. A CV that includes Noma Australia and Vue de Monde sets expectations high, and the dishes make good on that promise. Australian ingredients star, from marron enriched with a lime-sharpened brown butter emulsion to pickled quandongs that freshen a meaty slice of oxheart tomato grilled over wood. This introspective attitude isn't entirely solemn, however - lunch might include reimagined lamingtons and a dinky half-time orange jelly. Although the quality of the estate wines continues to rise, the offer of well-chosen imports poured by enthusiastic staff is a pleasing development. The Trust The Chef tasting menu remains the best way to experience Knee Deep, especially when a head-turning "rose" of white plum dusted with powdered rosella brings things to a close.
D $15-$18; dégustations $70-$85