Knee Deep
Modern Australian

Many talented young chefs have cooked at Knee Deep, but there's something about Baxter Newstead that marks this cellar-door restaurant as one to (re)watch. A CV that includes Noma Australia and Vue de Monde sets expectations high, and the dishes make good on that promise.  Australian ingredients star, from marron enriched with a lime-sharpened brown butter emulsion to pickled quandongs that freshen a meaty slice of oxheart tomato grilled over wood. This introspective attitude isn't entirely solemn, however - lunch might include reimagined lamingtons and a dinky half-time orange jelly. Although the quality of the estate wines continues to rise, the offer of well-chosen imports poured by enthusiastic staff is a pleasing development. The Trust The Chef tasting menu remains the best way to experience Knee Deep, especially when a head-turning "rose" of white plum dusted with powdered rosella brings things to a close.

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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • One glass
  • Price:
  • E $18-$28

    M $30-$45

    D $15-$18; dégustations $70-$85

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Bar
    Wheelchair Access
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings essential
  • Chef:
  • Baxter Newstead

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