Lunch Sat 11.30am-2.30pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 5.30pm-11pm
Lûmé has never been short of ambition. And it's still very much part of the equation, with dishes like "Pearl On the Ocean Floor", an amazing wash of oceanic flavours (blue scampi roe, sea succulents, salty foam, oyster). But now that chef Shaun Quade has full creative reign, emphasis is on pleasure over provocation. Diced grilled mussels come with finger lime, sunflower seeds and pickled sunflower leaves. Barbecued Spanish mackerel shoots for maximum flavour with fermented abalone, kombu and mushroom sauce. Desserts, like a "pavlova" with freeze-dried meringue, quandong and fig leaf ice-cream, remain a highlight. Service has relaxed, too (a relief when you're on the long haul), and drink pairings are inventive and pleasantly surprising. There are still moments of oddness like jerky-ish aged emu ham and eel "honey" served with thrillingly good rye bread, but they're more integrated, giving the menu a grown-up feel of fine-tuned light and shade.