Lunch Sat 11.30am-1pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm
Shaun Quade's food at Lûmé can get trippy. The baby corn cradled in a taco and perched on a corn husk-lined coconut shell is actually grilled camel hump. The honey served with a burnt barley crumpet turns out to be eel-flavoured, while powdered liver shares a plate with smoky abalone. Mackerel mascarpone, another edgy concept, adds further dimension to sunflower and chestnut porridge. A brilliant dessert pairs sea urchin-infused frozen meringue with "the last fruits of summer". Drink pairings bounce from sake to beer to Madeira to Hunter Valley sémillon; really, the only sensible thing to do is to sit back and enjoy the show. Quade and company are committed to pushing the boat out on all fronts, from how bookings are taken right through to petits fours. It's an enjoyable ride, even when some dishes fall short of their ambition. Smooth, informed service helps, as does the sleek room, all timber, copper and linen detailing.
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