Mon-Thu 6pm-11pm, Fri 5.30pm-11pm, Sat-Sun 11am-11pm
It's a Fitzroy dining landmark, but Ladro still pushes a welcome combination of tradition and surprise. A pancetta and pear bruschetta is an inspired entrée, polenta chips with Gorgonzola sauce hit all the right spots and precision-charred Black Angus scotch fillet with horseradish and Volcanic salt is even better with triple-cooked potatoes. But Ladro's pizze remain the hero. On the gamberi pizza, fior di latte is teamed with prawns and zucchini on a faultlessly thin base and lifted with extra chilli. The air-conditioning can struggle on warm nights, but the crowd typically sits contented in the clean, tranquil interior. The drinks list focuses on Italy, with prosecco ushering you in, a Chianti keeping you captive and a clean, sharp limoncello seeing you out. An over-soaked tiramisù with unnecessary Pop Rocks might be lacking in form, but chocolate-filled cannoli or basil panna cotta with chocolate soil make for strong final impressions.