Opening chef Joel Valvasori-Pereza might have left the building (see Lulu La Delizia page xx), but the party rages on at this CBD bunker. While her predecessor focused largely on the robust flavours of Italy's north-east, chef Alexandra Haynes takes a broader view of the country's cuisine. Sardines and green olives on toast introduce a touch of the Mediterranean to proceedings, as do skewers of frilly ox tongue hit with marjoram and oregano. Hopefully it's just teething issues, but the Il Capo chef's menu hasn't elicited the same sighs it once did. Thankfully, hand-made pasta (crab and chilli linguine, say) is as reliable as the switched-on service. When the dining room hits capacity, seek refuge in the intimate wine store where a treasury of vinous arcana from near and far awaits. Otherwise, a boozy trifle spiked with Solerna blood-orange liqueur encapsulates all that's great about Lalla Rookh's brand of Australian-Italian fun.
Set menu $68