Lunch Tue-Fri noon-2.30pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10pm
For all its ghetto laneway cred and savvy playlist, it's what's on the plate that impresses most at Lee Ho Fook. Chef Victor Liong's hip new-style Chinese is a hybrid of classical European training and the food he grew up with, so dishes are often a treat for the eyes as well as the tastebuds. A wreath of raw kingfish arrives crowned in clouds of white fungi and daikon radish roses. The humble potato salad becomes an elegant sheaf of shredded blanched potato scattered with grilled enoki, saucy with ginger and vinegar. Sang choi bao gets a fancy makeover with sticky fingers of wagyu beef and baby cos cups. Wines are arranged by grape variety, sub-ranked by texture and expression and are in keeping with Liong's style - Old World, new techniques. Any misconceptions about Asian desserts vanish in a mouthful of jasmine tea-infused burnt caramel custard, or honeydew melon showered in a cucumber-lime granita.