Lunch Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm
Dinner daily 6pm-11pm
Chef Victor Liong calls it cheeky Chinese. Others - noting the laneway location, the old red brick warehouse and its neon-lit bar - prefer to call it hipster Chinese. Lee Ho Fook marches to the beat of its own drum, but for all the cheek (Chongqing-style chicken crackling, the offbeat but effective mix of heirloom tomatoes, fried tofu and buffalo mozzarella with dried shiso and sumac), there's plenty of technique on this snack-and-share menu. Smoked eel, silken tofu and pickled shimeji mushrooms make for an ethereal two-bite entrée; eggplant cigars inside a toffee-crisp batter are sluiced with red vinegar for sweet-sour brilliance. And as for the wagyu tartare spliced with mapo tofu, it's a West-meets-East triumph with creeping Sichuan heat. There's plenty of fun to be had at this upmarket Chinese chophouse, but it also has serious smarts - including the wine list, which takes the road less travelled to the Old World - and super-savvy staff.