Lunch Tue-Sat noon-2pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-9pm
There's something charmingly haphazard about certain aspects of dining at Les Bistronomes. Harried but happy staff and creaky floorboards engender a buzzy bonhomie. Clement Chauvin's take on bistronomy applies a touch of fine-dining technique familiar from his time at Sage to the classic bistro hitlist that includes beef Wellington, duck à l'orange, steak tartare, and prawn cocktail. The last could be lighter on garnish and heavier on shellfish, but the duck turns heads - cooked whole in ash, its richness is offset by the sweet and acid characters of red cabbage, orange and pine nuts. Lemon sole cooked whole in beurre noisette also shows restraint; steak au poivre, conversely, is a bit overworked, the slices distributed fussily beside microscopic florets of broccoli. Affable sommelier Abel Bariller knows his way around a Gallic-leaning list that will put paid to any negative preconceptions you might have about Beaujolais.