Question: why is it that some of Western Australia's most vital bar food is to be found in Albany, a regional centre five hours south of Perth by car? Answer: can't talk, too busy polishing off the remaining handfuls of fried whitebait paired with tamarind mayo. While the menu at Liberté includes nods to owner Amy Hamilton's French training (comforting steak frites, chicken liver parfait), much of the cooking is notable for its effortless use of Vietnamese flavours. Well-blackened Brussels sprouts get lifted with lime and sriracha; flat egg noodles are tossed with crab, fish sauce, garlic and butter in the name of good eating; and fried golf-ball-sized profiteroles conceal Vietnamese coffee ice-cream centres. Whether you make camp in the well-worn, bistro-inspired front bar or the Belle Époque-styled back room, count on expertly made cocktails, outré local wines and one of the most sincere welcomes anywhere on Western Australia's southern coastline.