Lunch daily noon-2.30pm
Dinner Sun-Thu 5.30pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 5pm-11pm
Assertively flavoured Thai food can be hard to find in Melbourne, which is why the arrival of David Thompson's street-food chain, in a theatrically decorated riverfront space at Crown, has been embraced with enthusiastic gratitude. The chicken Chiang Mai larp is unapologetically fiery but it's also balanced, nuanced and served with a side of chilled raw cabbage. It's the same approach with the rich, salty flat noodles and chewy-sweet chive cakes, chilli and smoky grilled lamb ribs and thin, salty lime-dressed rice noodles tossed with chicken, prawns and peanuts. They're all huge on flavour but with things set at just the right volume. Service is pitched at the right fast-friendly pace - important in an often jammed 160-seat canteen - and refreshing, chilli-savvy cocktails and a mix of craft and Thai beers hit the mark. There's good sweet stuff, like grilled sticky rice with banana, too, and the spacious terrace is primo position when nights are balmy.