Dinner Tue-Sat 5pm-10pm
Pity the couples who come alone instead of with a posse. One glance at the wood-burning beast of a smoker and they'll regret their decision. Pitboss Luke Powell applies exacting technique to deliver down-home barbecued fare meant for a clan. Beef short rib is cooked low (85C, then at 77C) and slow (15 hours). Blood sausage studded with currants is licked with smoke, then charred on the grill. Both benefit from a side of puckery fennel. If you're lucky, Powell will bang out a pasta special: hand-rolled cavatelli, say, with lobster oil and smoky clams à la Wakuda - a nod to his days at Tetsuya's. The tee-clad, tatted-up bunch are serious about food (linen napkins; en pointe service), but don't take themselves too seriously (hammering playlist; maple syrup-soaked sponge pudding) and nor should you. Embrace the communal benches, holler to your fellow diners, order another bottle of orange wine and let the smoky times roll.