Lunch Fri-Sun noon-3pm;
Dinner Wed-Sun 6pm-9.30pm
A glass box on the end of a wharf, LuMi is a beacon of life and vigour. At its heart is the open kitchen, where chef Federico Zanellato yokes the fire of his imagination to the precision of his technique. The result is dishes that brim with good ideas, but are coolly delineated by the bounds of good taste and clarity of expression. The battery of snacks that kicks off the tasting-style menu signals the chef's interest in exploring the meeting of Japan and Italy, most notably in a sublimely textured play on chawanmushi done as a satiny steamed parmesan custard. Tiny, perfect agnolotti burst gently under the tooth to reveal a superbly savoury tomato and caper dashi filling, while hints of lemon thyme and cumquat are surprisingly welcome in supple chitarra with hanks of Moreton Bay bug meat. The modern decorative touches might not please all comers, but engaged service and carefully crafted wine matches make LuMi shine.
Lunch menus $55, $75;
Dinner menu $105
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