Lunch Fri-Sun noon-3pm
Dinner Wed, Thu & Sun 6.30pm-9.30pm, Fri-Sat 6pm-9.30pm
A restaurant in a glass box in the middle of a residential wharf, with the casino and Maritime Museum as neighbours might not be suggestive of the city's most innovative and best-value food. But quietly subverting expectations is the way chef Federico Zanellato plays it. Combining classic Italian technique with Asian influences, he defies fusion preconceptions with beautifully realised dishes: exquisite coils of tagiolini topped with prawns, bottarga and broccolini or pieces of thinly sliced raw snapper with fermented cucumber and a salty roe emulsion. Sliding a knife through an expertly cooked piece of wagyu, perfectly matched with the punch of a Japanese citrus, while ordering another nerello Mascalese or Pugliese primitivo from a list that complements its intelligent Italian picks with a keen sake line-up, it's easy to feel good about life, especially with the background of bobbing boats in the Bay. LuMi is not to be missed.
5 courses $75
8 courses $115