Lunch daily noon-3pm
Dinner daily 5pm-10pm
Melbourne has a thing for comfortable Italian, and this self-assured laneway trattoria knows how to deliver the staples. Butter comes in foil, pasta is handmade and the Collins Street suits soak it all up like a wedge of ciabatta in a pool of Nap sauce. Evenings draw a diverse crowd - it's also the time when a spot at the bar is best. Start with bar snacks or antipasti (the baked polpetti in sugo is a must) but always factor double-carb into your plans. En pointe pasta (agnolotti stuffed with veal and amaretti crumbs, say) and confidently minimal pizza (perhaps topped with sopressa and Kalamata olives) are what chef Marco Lori does best. Desserts, such as a chocolate semifreddo with mandarin sorbet, also merit attention. Though Lupino's a well-oiled machine, missteps can occur - lacklustre seasoning in some dishes, for instance - but an excellent wine list (with spot-on recommendations from staff) keep the dial firmly locked on comfort.