Lunch daily noon-3pm
Dinner daily 5pm-10pm
Lupino is the trattoria we all want on our block: generous, predictable, professional. To start, char-grilled peach halves topped with prosciutto, goat's cheese and basil bring summer to the city, while an ample bowl of cauliflower fritto with white anchovies will banish the blues year-round. Serving sizes seem set by nonna, not by an accountant. A similarly unstinting hand is responsible for the veal cotoletta, which is sent into the pan with enough butter to melt a fat man's heart. Crunchy, bitter witlof leaves are an apt accompaniment. The mighty rotolo arrives by way of Sicily, stuffed with ricotta, pumpkin and sultanas and surrounded by sage leaves. You'll find plenty on the Italo-centric wine list to cut the richness, and if the pinot grigio doesn't do it, the grappa selection might. In any case, sympathetic waitstaff provide excellent guidance. Finish with wedges of torrone semifreddo, delicious to the last maraschino cherry.