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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

64
Luxembourg
Modern European
  • 2/157 Fitzroy St,
    St Kilda,
    Melbourne, VIC
  • (03) 9525 4488,
    www.luxembourgbistro.com.au
  • Tue-Thu 5pm-10.30pm

    Fri noon-11.30pm

    Sat 5pm-11.30pm

    Sun noon-10.30pm

Luxembourg
-37.858884,144.979504

Luxembourg brings a dash of much-needed chic to St Kilda's Fitzroy Street. It's there in the essentials - fine oysters with all the trappings and a hessian sack of sensational sourdough. There's style, too, in croquettes stuffed with pork confit, or mock vol-au-vents fashioned from crisp potato skins filled with whipped cod roe and Avruga. Admire the long marble bar, the handsome antlers jutting from a wall, and smartly attired staff as you pore over an intriguing, French-accented wine list that unites classic producers and new-wave offerings. Expect the odd surprise from chef Chris Watson - heady smoked egg anchoring an otherwise proper Lyonnaise salad, for example - but his roasted chicken, steak au poivre and whole flounder à la meunière are all classics in the genre. All very slick, but never stuffy; the nightly cinq à sept happy hour offers half-price oysters, and on Tuesdays you can BYO a bottle from home. 


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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • E $13-$18

    M $29-$35

    D $14-$16

  • Feature:
  • BYO
    Licensed
    Bar
    Outdoor dining
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended

    BYO Tuesday
  • Chef:
  • Chris Watson & Andrew McConnell

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