With orange neon lighting and DJ beats, Magic Mountain looks and sounds like a bar. Two booze lists comprising cocktails and a sharp selection of wine and beer signal that the venue acts like a bar, too. But coming to this hip, double-storey former Irish pub just for the booze misses the point. Chef Karen Batson already has Thai cred (Cookie, The Toff in Town, Colonel Tan's) but at Magic Mountain she's gone up a gear, combining a powerful Thai flavour profile with some playful fusion. There are super-spicy chilli and white fungus sausages, and sublimely textured tapioca dumplings stuffed with lotus root, peanuts and pickled turnip. Fried wings and ribs are given a Thai chilli-soy treatment, while white pepper and soy add zap to a grilled Scotch fillet, and snapper and prawns are submerged in a sour orange curry. Service is as upbeat as the music and the Thai breakfast is a boon for earlybirds and late revellers both.
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