From its neo-teahouse aesthetic to a menu marshalling ideas from across South East Asia, Mamasan is a restaurant in tune with the zeitgeist. Outdoor tables might be perfect for observing Broadbeach's human circus, yet pride of place is by the pass, where eaters are treated to close-ups of the bustling kitchen. You can almost feel the sear of the woks as cooks stir-fry proteins and vegetables, and you'll taste that high-heat smokiness in pork and lettuce sang choi bau. Juicy Sichuan-salted duck might be another nod to tradition, but the bulk of Ray Choi's food is about crossing and blurring borders. Wagyu stars in a thick red curry, while dramatic crab and scallop ravioli dumplings are served with a coconut sambal bisque. A dense chocolate brownie with toasted sesame ice-cream makes a fitting (if somewhat pricey) farewell. Uptempo service suits Mamasan's vibe, while a drinks list big on wine and Asian-inspired cocktails keeps the mood lively.