Breakfast Sat-Sun 8am-11.30am
Fri-Sun noon-11pm, Mon-Thu 5pm-11pm
Marion's seductive charms have created a Gertrude Street conspiracy theory: that Andrew McConnell's wine bar is so good it eclipsed the much bigger, older sibling next door. Whether Marion did in fact inspire a recent refit of Cutler & Co is best discussed on a black banquette, holding a glass of something you've never heard of (and quite possibly of the natural persuasion), a plate of mussels with lovage oil and fiery fried crumbs of 'nduja to hand (a dish McConnell knows not to mess with at his peril). Marion gets its kicks with creations like kingfish crudo gone gutsy with fine strips of lardo cut through with pickled cucumber; cured pork neck matched by a sharp apple cider and mustard dressing and clean green apple swatches and asparagus in a custardy Comté bed, the richness amped to 11 with shaved egg yolk. Marion, thy name is bistronomy. Born as a pit-stop in the McConnell empire, this wine bar has become a star act.