Breakfast Sat-Sun 8am-11.30am;
You're wily, Andrew McConnell. You decided to call the eatery you opened next door to your flagship Cutler & Co a wine bar, despite the fact that it has a kitchen that puts a great many restaurants to shame. And simply in framing it as a bar, keeping the menu concise and the mood peppy, you've granted us permission to come here twice a week rather than three times a year. We're dropping in at brunch for Lune croissants and buns packed with fried mortadella, swinging by at lunch for sparely composed plates of briny mussels dressed up with parsley oil and 'nduja, and then back at dinner for exemplary roast chicken and whole flounder. Whatever the time of day, the wine offer is outstanding and the look is stripped-back, but detailed with care. You might say something similar about the service, which has a gracefully casual quality, exemplified by star maître d' Andrew Joy, that comes only with years of practice. A smarter smart-casual.
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