Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10pm
Perched at the counter that rings Mikihito Nagai's kitchen, it's hard not to feel smug. Not only have you scored a reservation at Margaret River's best place to eat after dark, you're also occupying some of its primest real estate. Fry guy Norio Idei spends his evenings transforming local seafood into dazzling modern tempura. Olive and yuzu powder lends savour to golden whiting, while matcha salt elevates juicy Broome scampi. The fried stuff might be the kitchen's bread and batter, but the rest of the menu warrants exploring, too. Shark Bay crab steamed with fermented chilli, tofu and dashi takes fish-in-a-bag to another level, just as miso butter jolts baby carrots into life. Other than a blackboard detailing the make-up of the set menu, the fit-out keeps things plain: shake things up with a black sesame ice-cream and red bean cake dessert or another pass at the value-packed sake and wine list. The warm service, however, is a constant.
dégustations $60, $68