Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10pm
It could be downtown Tokyo instead of backstreet Richmond. Despite its Antipodean location, Minamishima sticks to the sushi-temple script by playing hard to get (newcomers typically walk past the front door a few times before spotting the discreet signage) and presenting itself as a stage set with sushi master Koichi Minamishima and one offsider behind a spotlit, austere counter. It's pure theatre - Chekhov in fish - and if regulars are by now familiar with the buttery burst of torched flounder fin or the garfish fired up with minced ginger and spring onion, there are surprises in store. Pale swatches of densely-textured fugu and asparagus in tempura batter with matcha salt or fatty tuna belly tartare, salmon roe and taro chips, for instance. Sushi temples don't come cheap, but it's worth it even before you factor in the impeccable service led by sommelier Randolph Cheung. Take an exhilarating ride, and save on the airfare to Japan.
Omakase menu $150