Lunch Thu-Fri noon-2.30pm;
Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm
This is the Sicilian neighbourhood trattoria you wish your neighbourhood had. Joseph Vargetto brings his fine-dining skills, honed at Grossi Florentino, Langton's and Number 8 among others, to bear on the traditionally more rustic food of his southern Italian heritage. Elegant entrées range from simple ideas executed keenly - oysters with a blood-orange granita - to more elaborate tuna carpaccio, presented as gleaming red discs decorated with black and white sesame seeds on a tableau of diced avocado and tomatoes, fennel bread and avocado purée. Main courses are comforting and generous: springy hand-cut linguine with a veritable mountain of mussels, clams, prawns and scallops punctuated with chilli and garlic, or an autumnal veal cotoletta, earthy with fried shiitake and a deep porcini sauce. Desserts can get cluttered - caramel parfait doesn't benefit from its tropical mango accompaniment - but that misstep is an exception to the feel-good rule.