There's nothing particularly monstrous about the restaurant-café-bar that forms the beating heart of Hotel Hotel, the hippest designer-digs in the country. It's large, but spread over such an odd variety of spaces that it's not overwhelming. The menu is also not small, but makes good sense in its all-day diner appeal: stop by for a coffee and a crema Catalana with Pedro Ximénez, a glass of grower Champagne and a South Coast oyster, or to make a feast of the share plates. It all works, as does the very savvy drinks list. Some gripes: the sprawl of the place can confuse the young waiters as much as diners. Pricing is erratic, and sometimes oddly high - $23 for the entree-sized beef tartare? Cocktails at $25? But that tartare, done with miso-cured egg, avocado, horseradish and crisps of black rice, is a delight. And how better to stave off Canberra's chill than with roasted Brussels sprouts with duck hearts and blood sausage? Join the party.