Club sandwiches. Hushed, clubby surrounds. Mature waiters. Tablecloths. Monster isn't having a bar of it. This is an entirely new kind of lobby restaurant. Just as Hotel Hotel celebrates Canberra at its most creative, with wild design and a vigorous engagement with the arts scene, Monster puts a spotlight on the region's produce. Three Mills toast with preserves from Lake George at breakfast, say, or a tartare of Boxgum Grazing beef made at lunch, rich with avocado and miso-cured egg yolk and served with a dramatic, hanky-sized black-rice crisp. Or the local wine served alongside the inventive and big-flavoured likes of juicy, lightly spicy fried quail and Japanese mayo or flat-iron steak with chimichurri and fried okra at dinner. Could the service use a dash more organisation and hotel polish? Certainly. Could the menu change a bit more often? Deploy a lighter touch? Sure, but who would risk losing the signature yabby jaffle?