Lunch daily noon-3pm;
Dinner Wed-Sat 5pm-10.30pm
In restaurant years, MoVida may be staring down the barrel of middle age, but this laneway legend still has serious swagger. It's there in the graffiti-lined entrance, the boisterous red-brick dining room, and the aproned waitstaff, who squeeze between the tables with practised ease. Most importantly, that energy is ever-present on the exceptional tapas menu, which marries non-negotiable originals (the anchoa, the molten-centred croquetas) with invigorating additions. Of the latter, zero in on the Spanish mackerel with pine-nut gazpacho sorbet, which arrives in a plume of smoke, or the pickled mussel with cod roe on a crisp potato wafer. Rustic raciones add heft to your meal, perhaps sherry-braised chicken with the crunch of almonds, or a pan of saffron-rich, seafood-studded rice. Desserts are best when they're faithful renditions - skip the too-sweet PX ice-cream and honeycomb in favour of the caramel flan; it may not sound as sexy, but this old-timer eats like a dream.