Lunch Wed-Sat noon-2.30pm;
Dinner Mon-Fri 6pm-10.30pm, Sat 5.30pm-10.30pm
A nomad might be one without a permanent home, but there's nothing to suggest that this 180-seater in a Surry Hills backstreet is set to wander. The room is textbook industrial hip: exposed brick walls, timber beams, barrels and distressed finishes around an open kitchen. Food is rustic, approachable and mostly uncomplicated. For the best exploring, go with a gang, order big and share (unless it's a plate of smoky buffalo mozzarella with blushing nectarines; you'll want that all to yourself). It's a large room, and service can be a little scattered, but all is forgiven when a cast-iron pan of Jersey milk haloumi with sweet blistered tomatoes arrives straight from the wood-fired oven. Lamb enlivened with dukkah is an easy win; likewise the all-Australian wine list for a walkabout slightly closer to home. The lighting may be dim, but gold-dusted cannoli, pumped with subtle orange-blossom cream and set on pistachio crumbs, still shine.