Lunch Thu-Mon 11.30am-3pm
It's a winery restaurant with all the trappings: vineyard views, a tasting room with spittoons, that "escaped the city" feeling. But that's just the start of Oakridge's pleasures. Chefs Matt Stone and Jo Barrett take inspiration from indigenous Australia, the Yarra Valley's rolling seasons (a hint: there are many more than four) and a "real cooking" ethos that plays out in the daily milling of wheat for the excellent bread, in the curdy changes of the local milk, and in an ongoing project to grow more but touch the land lightly. The food is honest, heartfelt and outstandingly pretty. A caraway pastry is an intricate pinwheel that plays off a lively salad of smoked trout and garden pickles. Seared kangaroo comes with fermented coastal greens, a kind of native kimchi. A "compost" dessert of shiraz lees, coriander stem ice-cream and grapefruit skin purée turns waste into culinary art: it's a statement, but like all Oakridge's proclamations, it's as delicious as it is thoughtful.