Lunch Fri noon-1pm;
dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-8pm
Quietly, up a set of stairs in a dimly lit side-street, a revolution has been taking place. Jock Zonfrillo might be the savviest interpreter of indigenous ingredients working in fine dining. That this task has fallen to a Scot of Italian heritage may seem incongruous, but to taste what's on the plate is to be convinced, over the course of a great number of dishes (and quite a few hours) of the sincerity of his commitment, the confidence of his craft and the importance of his mission. There's theatre in potato damper cooked on coals at the table, invention in puffy chips of kangaroo tendon, and pure pleasure in sweet marron scented with Geraldton wax and cut with watercress purée. The backdrop is a hip (if inescapably poky) room lined with wine fridges housing the bottles that provide a brilliant, largely local counterpoint in the glass. To finish, a barely set buttermilk infused with the unique perfume of the strawberry eucalypt is a revelation.